Cowboy vs. Katy

Sept. 10, Valentine-Ainsworth, 49 miles, NE wind, 60/45—I'm excited about riding the Cowboy Trail, first time on the trip I've been off-road. The Cowboy is a converted railroad right of way still being developed, so I expect to return to the highway after 18 miles. The first eight are sandy and loose, then the trail hardens. From Valentine I cross the Niobrara River on a long bridge and ride through wild-looking grassland well away from highway 20. At Arabia Ranch I hit the undeveloped gap, which I've heard might be doable. I try for a mile, then give up—too gravelly and too many soft spots, though a mountain bike would work.

The remaining 30 miles into Ainsworth are uneventful. Two towns on my route, Wood Lake and Johnstown, like many places on the Plains, have main streets that can't sustain businesses.

I've spent enough of the last four years working for Missouri's Katy Trail, a long rail-trail like the Cowboy, to feel competitive. The Katy is the longest bike trail in the country for now, but the Cowboy will pass it when resurfacing is finished. Admitting my extremely limited experience with the Cowboy, and the Katy's advantage of being older, here's how they stack up.

Cowboy Trail, Nebraska Game and Parks, 1994, 136 miles long (321 when complete), may expand to Lincoln-Omaha in future, former Chicago and North Western Railroad

Katy Trail, Missouri State Parks, 1990, 225 miles long (238 when complete), may expand to Kansas City in future, former Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad

SCENERY East from Valentine, the Cowboy crosses the Niobrara and enters the Sandhills. West from Norfolk (the eastern terminus) it runs along the Elkhorn River. The Katy follows the Missouri River for about 165 miles under tall limestone bluffs, then cuts across agricultural land.

ACCESSIBILITY Both have trailhead towns about every 10-15 miles. Katy towns are probably more historic because Euro-American settlement in Missouri goes back an extra half-century. Katy trailheads have better features (restroom, kiosk, exhibits) than the few I saw on the Cowboy.

REMOTENESS The Cowboy is remote for about 15 miles east of Valentine, otherwise it goes alongside highway 20. On multiple stretches, the Katy is only route at the base of Missouri River bluffs. The Katy also runs near highways for great distances, but a screen of trees usually blocks traffic views.

SURFACE Both are crushed limestone, which packs and drains well. However, the Cowboy section I rode on had loose, pebbly sand (no surprise in the Sandhills).

BRIDGES The Cowboy's Niobrara River bridge is spectacular, and the trail boasts 221 bridges. Many Katy bridges are beautiful riveted trusses 80-100 years old.

DEPOTS Cowboy has two old depots at O'Neill (brick) and Long Pine (wood). Going by photos and descriptions of Cowboy depots, Katy depots at Sedalia, Boonville, and St. Charles are far more striking.

WEATHER Missouri summers are humid and uncomfortable, Nebraska winters harsher. The Katy is often shaded by trees grown up since railroad maintenance ended in the 1980s. Over my Cowboy stretch, trees were rare.

HORSES Katy allows horse riders on about 25 miles. No horses on the Cowboy.

POLITICS In its early days the Katy faced strong landowner opposition. Property owners feared trespassing, vandalism, and liability. In fact, the trail has boosted local economies. From what I hear, similar arguments are now made against the Cowboy.